Materials guide

Every plastic behaves differently. Pick the right one.

The same model printed in PLA and in TPU is two different objects — one you can stand on, one you can fold in half. Here is what separates the seven materials we print, and what each is genuinely for.

A 3D printer laying down a part under coloured workshop lighting

Why print it

Printing does not beat machining or moulding at everything. It wins decisively at a few things, and those few cover most of what a workshop actually needs.

No tooling, ever

An injection mould is thousands of dollars and weeks of lead time before the first part exists. A printer has none: part one costs what part one hundred costs.

Drawing today, part tomorrow

Most parts come off the plate the same day they are quoted. Nothing is ordered, nothing is set up, and nothing waits behind another job.

Shapes a cutter cannot reach

Internal channels, lattices, undercuts, a hinge printed already assembled. If a tool cannot get to it, that is a limit of cutting, not of building up.

Being wrong is cheap

Change three millimetres in the model and print it again. Three revisions in a week costs less than one mistake caught after the mould was cut.

One is a real quantity

A discontinued spare, a jig for one machine, a bracket that fits only your shelf. No minimum order, because there is no setup to amortise.

Made here

No import, no customs, no six-week container. The file goes up, the part comes out, and you can hold it this week.

A print head extruding filament onto the build plate

How a printed part is made

Fused deposition: a strand of plastic is melted and laid down in lines, one thin layer at a time, until the lines add up to a solid object.

  1. 1 The model

    A closed 3D shape, exported as an STL from any CAD tool — Fusion, SolidWorks, Blender, Tinkercad.

  2. 2 The slice

    The shape is cut into layers and each layer into a path: walls first, then the infill lattice inside, and supports under anything that overhangs.

  3. 3 The print

    The nozzle traces every path at around 200–300 °C onto a heated plate. Each layer welds to the one under it while it is still hot.

  4. 4 The finish

    Supports come off, the seam is cleaned up, and the part can be sanded, drilled, tapped, glued or painted like any other plastic.

The seven materials

Four properties separate them in practice: how much load they take, how far they bend, how hot they can get, and how much trouble they are to print. Everything else is detail.

Strength
How much load it carries before it gives.
Flexibility
How far it bends and still comes back.
Heat resistance
How warm it can get and keep its shape.
Outdoors / UV
How it holds up to sunlight and weather.
Easy to print
How forgiving it is on the machine.

PLA

The easy one

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part has to look right — prototypes, display models, indoor jigs, anything with fine detail.

Live with it goes soft in a closed car, and it chips rather than bends when something hits it.

Nozzle 190–220°C
Bed 50–60°C
Softens at ~55°C
Enclosure Not needed

PETG

The all-rounder

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part has a job to do — functional brackets, water-facing parts, anything that must not shatter.

Live with it strings a little, so expect a minute of clean-up, and it scratches more easily than PLA.

Nozzle 230–250°C
Bed 70–85°C
Softens at ~70°C
Enclosure Not needed

ABS

The workshop plastic

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part gets worked on afterwards — enclosures and brackets you will drill, tap, glue or smooth with acetone.

Live with it curls off an open plate, so it wants an enclosure, and it wants the room ventilated.

Nozzle 230–260°C
Bed 90–110°C
Softens at ~98°C
Enclosure Required

ASA

ABS that survives a summer

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part lives outside — mounts, housings, signage, anything facing the sun for years.

Live with the same enclosure and the same ventilation as ABS, and it costs a little more.

Nozzle 240–265°C
Bed 90–110°C
Softens at ~98°C
Enclosure Required

PC

The strong one

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part takes real load or real heat — structural brackets, tooling, anything sitting next to a motor.

Live with a very hot nozzle, a sealed enclosure, and a spool that must be dried before it is opened up.

Nozzle 260–310°C
Bed 100–120°C
Softens at ~130°C
Enclosure Required

TPU 95A

Rubber you can print

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when the part has to give — gaskets, feet, grips, wheels, cases and protective covers.

Live with it prints slowly and needs a direct-drive printer; a long soft strand does not push well down a tube.

Nozzle 220–240°C
Bed 40–60°C
Softens at ~60°C
Enclosure Not needed

TPU 85A

Softer still

Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Easy to print

Reach for it when you want something closer to a rubber band than a shoe sole — soft seals, squeezable grips, damping mounts.

Live with it is the hardest filament in this list to run: slow, fussy, and only for simple geometry.

Nozzle 210–230°C
Bed 30–50°C
Softens at ~55°C
Enclosure Not needed

Still unsure? Send us the model and tell us what the part does — choosing the material is part of the quote, not something we leave to you.

Upload a model

Side by side

The same numbers as the cards above, in one table — for when the question is "which of these", not "what is this".

Scroll the table sideways to see every column.

Filament properties compared. Ratings are out of five; temperatures are the usual working range.
MaterialStrengthFlexibilityHeat resistanceOutdoors / UVEasy to printNozzleBedEnclosure
PLA190–220°50–60°Not needed
PETG230–250°70–85°Not needed
ABS230–260°90–110°Required
ASA240–265°90–110°Required
PC260–310°100–120°Required
TPU 95A220–240°40–60°Not needed
TPU 85A210–230°30–50°Not needed

And then there is colour

Colour is pigment mixed into the same plastic, so it changes almost nothing about how a part behaves. Almost.

  • Black
  • White
  • Grey
  • Silver
  • Red
  • Orange
  • Yellow
  • Green
  • Blue
  • Purple
  • Transparent
  • Wood

Dark colours hide layer lines. Black is the kindest finish a printed part gets for free.

Transparent shows every line instead, which is either the point or a problem.

Glitter, glow and carbon-filled grades are abrasive — they wear a brass nozzle out in a few spools.

Which colours are in stock is shown for real when you configure a print — this is the range they come from.

If you only read one thing

Find the sentence that sounds like your part.

It just has to look right.
PLA
It has to survive being used.
PETG
It lives outside, in the sun.
ASA
It has to bend and spring back.
TPU 95A
It gets hot, or it carries a load.
PC
I will drill and glue it afterwards.
ABS
Spools of 3D printing filament

Buy the filament, print it yourself

Have a printer already? The spools we run are the spools we sell — same materials, same colours, off the shelf.

Filament is not listed in the store yet — message us and we will tell you what is on the shelf.

Chat with us on WhatsApp

Or let us print it

Upload an STL and you get the real price, the real weight and the real print time before you commit to anything — sliced with the same settings the machine will run.

Get a price for your model